Element RC Gaterunner 2WD Kit

The kind of vehicle the maker sells it as. It sets what the car is built to do and which cars it is fair to compare it with.

• Desert and trophy trucks copy full-size off-road racers: long travel, and bodies that leave the rear wheels open.

Only one axle is driven, the rear on almost every 2WD RC car.

• It is lighter and simpler, and it takes more throttle control on loose ground.

Sold without a motor, so you choose the motor, ESC and battery yourself.

• Rows that depend on the motor say so.

A kit you build yourself from parts.

• Most kits come without motor, ESC, servo, radio and battery, and many without tires or a painted body.
• The manual lists what to add.

The maker's nominal size compared with a full-size vehicle. It works more as a class label than a measurement.

• A 1/10 monster truck is far bigger than a 1/10 touring car, so compare length and weight for real size.
• This one is 457 mm long.

The maker's product number for this exact version.

• A V2, a new color, or a kit instead of an RTR usually has a different number, and parts can differ between them.
• Check it against your box or receipt before ordering parts.

The small gear on the motor shaft. Fewer teeth gear the car shorter: quicker acceleration, lower top speed and a cooler motor. More teeth do the opposite.

• It depends on the motor you fit, so the maker does not list one.

The large gear the pinion drives. A bigger spur with the same pinion gears the car shorter.

• Pinion and spur must have the same pitch, or tooth size, to mesh.
• The Gearing parts table below shows this car's pitch and part numbers.

Every reduction after the spur, multiplied together: transmission, differentials and axle gears.

• It is fixed by the design; the gearing you change is the pinion and spur.
• This one is worked out from the tooth counts the maker publishes.

How many times the motor turns for one turn of the wheels. A higher number is shorter gearing: more acceleration and pulling power, less top speed.

The type of each differential, as the maker states it.

• A gear or ball diff lets the wheels on one axle turn at different speeds in a corner; a spool or locked diff turns them together for straight-line drive and climbing, at the cost of steering.

Center drive type: The documented drivetrain connection or size for this exact model. Match the mating component before buying a replacement.

Hub bearing size: The documented drivetrain connection or size for this exact model. Match the mating component before buying a replacement.

The tooth spacing of the fitted gear, stated as metric module or diametral pitch.

• The meshing pinion and spur need matching pitch. A missing pitch can be inferred from the other fitted gear; module and diametral pitch are not silently converted.

The outside diameter of the mounted tire, tread to tread. A taller tire covers more ground each turn, which gears the car taller.

• At high speed tires can balloon and grow, so the real gearing gets taller as the car goes faster.

Stock tire width: A documented stock wheel, tire, or axle measurement. Stock dimensions alone do not establish the largest size that will clear the body and suspension.

What the shocks are and how they are built, as the maker describes them.

• Oil-filled shocks damp with silicone oil; friction shocks, found on some entry-level cars, damp with a sprung plunger and cannot be tuned with oil.
• Threaded bodies set ride height with a collar you turn, rather than clips.
• The shaft size matters when buying seals, ends and rebuild kits.

The stock springs, in the maker's own wording: a color, a rate or a length.

• A stiffer spring holds the car up and resists bottoming out; a softer one lets it squat and follow rough ground.
• Rates are not comparable across makers unless they state the same unit.

The same measure at the rear, which differs from the front on this car.

Front upper shock bolt: A documented shock mounting interface at the named end and eye. A ball stud or standoff is distinct from a through-bolt. Match the mounting type, thread and eye dimensions when choosing a replacement shock.

Front lower shock bolt: A documented shock mounting interface at the named end and eye. A ball stud or standoff is distinct from a through-bolt. Match the mounting type, thread and eye dimensions when choosing a replacement shock.

Rear upper shock bolt: A documented shock mounting interface at the named end and eye. A ball stud or standoff is distinct from a through-bolt. Match the mounting type, thread and eye dimensions when choosing a replacement shock.

Rear lower shock bolt: A documented shock mounting interface at the named end and eye. A ball stud or standoff is distinct from a through-bolt. Match the mounting type, thread and eye dimensions when choosing a replacement shock.

The oil in the shocks slows how fast the suspension moves. Thicker oil settles the car more slowly and resists bottoming out; thinner oil lets the wheels follow bumps.

• Front and rear run the same oil on this car, so both ends respond alike. Changing one end at a time is the usual way to shift the balance.
• It is graded in wt here. A wt number is the oil maker's own grade and differs between brands, so match the brand, or use the oil maker's chart to convert.

Motor KV is the RPM a motor turns per volt with no load.

• This vehicle comes without a motor, so there is no stock KV; it depends on the one you fit.

The highest LiPo cell count the maker rates the electronics for.

• This vehicle comes without electronics, so it depends on the ESC and motor you fit.

Battery pack configuration: A documented battery, motor, or ESC installation detail. Electrical ratings and physical fit are separate checks.

Motor mount material: A documented battery, motor, or ESC installation detail. Electrical ratings and physical fit are separate checks.

ESC mounting method: A documented battery, motor, or ESC installation detail. Electrical ratings and physical fit are separate checks.

It needs a motor KV, and this vehicle comes without a motor. Fit one and the calculator works it out from the motor's KV and the gearing.

Overall length as the maker states it, usually with the body fitted.

• Useful for comparing real size, since scale labels are loose.

Overall width as the maker states it, usually with the body fitted.

• A wider car is more stable in corners and harder to roll over.

The distance between the front and rear axle centers. A longer wheelbase is steadier at speed and over bumps; a shorter one turns more tightly.