Team Associated RC10T3 Basic Plus Kit

The kind of vehicle the maker sells it as. It sets what the car is built to do and which cars it is fair to compare it with.

• Stadium trucks put wide truck tires and a truck body on a buggy-style chassis, and race on the same tracks as buggies.

Only one axle is driven, the rear on almost every 2WD RC car.

• It is lighter and simpler, and it takes more throttle control on loose ground.

Sold without a motor, so you choose the motor, ESC and battery yourself.

• Rows that depend on the motor say so.

A kit you build yourself from parts.

• Most kits come without motor, ESC, servo, radio and battery, and many without tires or a painted body.
• The manual lists what to add.

The maker's nominal size compared with a full-size vehicle. It works more as a class label than a measurement.

• A 1/10 monster truck is far bigger than a 1/10 touring car, so compare length and weight for real size.

The maker's product number for this exact version.

• A V2, a new color, or a kit instead of an RTR usually has a different number, and parts can differ between them.
• Check it against your box or receipt before ordering parts.

The small gear on the motor shaft. Fewer teeth gear the car shorter: quicker acceleration, lower top speed and a cooler motor. More teeth do the opposite.

• It depends on the motor you fit, so the maker does not list one.

The large gear the pinion drives. A bigger spur with the same pinion gears the car shorter.

• Pinion and spur must have the same pitch, or tooth size, to mesh.
• The Gearing parts table below shows this car's pitch and part numbers.

Every reduction after the spur, multiplied together: transmission, differentials and axle gears.

• It is fixed by the design; the gearing you change is the pinion and spur.

How many times the motor turns for one turn of the wheels. A higher number is shorter gearing: more acceleration and pulling power, less top speed.

A slipper clutch sits on the spur gear and slips under a sudden load, a hard landing or full throttle on grip, to protect the gears.

• Set it too loose and it wastes power; too tight and it protects nothing.

Hub bearing size: The documented drivetrain connection or size for this exact model. Match the mating component before buying a replacement.

The tooth spacing of the fitted gear, stated as metric module or diametral pitch.

• The meshing pinion and spur need matching pitch. A missing pitch can be inferred from the other fitted gear; module and diametral pitch are not silently converted.

The outside diameter of the mounted tire, tread to tread. A taller tire covers more ground each turn, which gears the car taller.

• Race tires wear down over a day, and a smaller tire gears the car shorter.

Stock wheel diameter: A documented stock wheel, tire, or axle measurement. Stock dimensions alone do not establish the largest size that will clear the body and suspension.

Axle thread: A documented stock wheel, tire, or axle measurement. Stock dimensions alone do not establish the largest size that will clear the body and suspension.

What the main chassis is made of and how it is built, as stated for this car. Braces, stiffeners and skid plates are not counted.

• Composite is the makers' word for molded plastic, usually nylon with glass or other fibers: it flexes and shrugs off hits, and it is light and cheap to replace.

What the shocks are and how they are built, as the maker describes them.

• Oil-filled shocks damp with silicone oil; friction shocks, found on some entry-level cars, damp with a sprung plunger and cannot be tuned with oil.

The inside diameter of the shock body, where the piston moves through oil.

• It is a shock measurement, separate from the motor pinion bore. Match the actual shock part when ordering pistons, seals or a replacement body.
• This is a nominal size inferred from the identified replacement components. It is not a measured internal diameter; confirm the exact body, piston and seal part numbers.

The stock springs, in the maker's own wording: a color, a rate or a length.

• A stiffer spring holds the car up and resists bottoming out; a softer one lets it squat and follow rough ground.
• Rates are not comparable across makers unless they state the same unit.

Front lower shock bolt: A documented shock mounting interface at the named end and eye. A ball stud or standoff is distinct from a through-bolt. Match the mounting type, thread and eye dimensions when choosing a replacement shock.

Rear lower shock bolt: A documented shock mounting interface at the named end and eye. A ball stud or standoff is distinct from a through-bolt. Match the mounting type, thread and eye dimensions when choosing a replacement shock.

The oil in the shocks slows how fast the suspension moves. Thicker oil settles the car more slowly and resists bottoming out; thinner oil lets the wheels follow bumps.

• Front and rear run the same oil on this car, so both ends respond alike. Changing one end at a time is the usual way to shift the balance.
• It is graded in wt here. A wt number is the oil maker's own grade and differs between brands, so match the brand, or use the oil maker's chart to convert.

Motor KV is the RPM a motor turns per volt with no load.

• This vehicle comes without a motor, so there is no stock KV; it depends on the one you fit.

The highest LiPo cell count the maker rates the electronics for.

• This vehicle comes without electronics, so it depends on the ESC and motor you fit.

ESC mounting method: A documented battery, motor, or ESC installation detail. Electrical ratings and physical fit are separate checks.

No transmitter comes in the box; you supply one that speaks the receiver's protocol.

No drive battery comes in the box.

• Buy one with the right plug and a cell count the ESC is rated for (the Battery row under Power).

It needs a motor KV, and this vehicle comes without a motor. Fit one and the calculator works it out from the motor's KV and the gearing.